Editor's note: This story was originally published on July 21, 2021. We're resharing the story in 2024. Initially, this story was created by #ThisIsÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ and underwritten by , spotlighting ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥'s unique flavors and . Thank you for supporting the local organizations that support us!
Flour tortillas are synonymous with ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥. "It’s the most iconic marker of northern Mexican or Southwestern culture — it’s how you know where you’re from," said Dr. Maribel Alvarez, an associate research professor in the University of ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥â€™s School of Anthropology who founded the . "In some southern, southeastern parts of Mexico, asking for flour tortillas with a taco would run you out of town. It would be sacrilege."
After moving to ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ as a teen, the first place I really felt like I was part of the city was in the lobby of , waiting patiently alongside what seemed to be a perfect cross section of the city to get our daily bread. (My order is the cheese enchilada combo with a birria taco — I take the meat out of the corn shell and put it in the sauce.)
Whenever I have lived elsewhere, my parents have shipped tortillas out from ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ in care packages. I’m not alone — this is a robust tradition for many who have spent time away.
“There are legendary stories of Northern Mexicans going to New York or London or Canada for opportunities, for university, and their parents sending them flour tortillas in the mail, because there’s such an attachment to the flavor,†said Alvarez.
Flour tortillas cool on a conveyor belt at Tortillas de Don Juan, 1924 S. Fourth Ave. on July 20, 2021.
“Flour tortillas are unique to ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ because they are unique to Sonora, in a relationship that supersedes the border,†she said. When Spanish colonizers came to the region 500 years ago, they introduced wheat to Indigenous groups, who at the time had lacked a winter crop. The Sonoran wheat had an unusually high elasticity in its protein, making a perfectly stretchy tortilla.
“[Sonorense, ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ense] call it a burro because it’s an object of cargo. You would put on a donkey lots of things you need to transport. A burro, a burrito, becomes a sort of holding, where you can pile up a real hearty meal,†Alvarez said.
Although the heritage Sonoran wheat fell out of favor with the industrialization of agriculture, home cooks and tortillerÃas across ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ have been maintaining a special texture in their dough that mimics the Sonoran wheat’s unmatched stretchiness.
“W³ó±ð²Ô started in the '70s, it was a novelty to have a home cook demonstrating how she made a tortilla. It’s about the feel of the dough — she’d touch it and say, it needs a little more water,†Alvarez said. “You could Google any recipe, but ultimately it’s more of an art than a science.â€
While ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ans love and tortillas, I wanted to experience the fullest range of tortillerÃas de harina across town. I was especially delighted by ’s tender layers, which recall the richness of laminated pastry dough, and the sturdiness of ’s tortillas, which can contain the prodigious juices of their marinated bistec de ranchera.
Toward the end of our interview, Alvarez remarked: “We haven’t spoken enough about how delicious flour tortillas are.†She paused, a smile ringing in her tone. “Especially with butter.â€
TortillerÃas in ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥, in alphabetical orderÂ
Note: Prices for a dozen tortillas occurred in a tight range. Small tortillas typically cost between $1.50 and $3; medium tortillas cost $2 to $4; large tortillas $3 to $5.
Alejandro’s Tortilla Factory
Location: .
For more information, .
Anita Street Market
Location: .
Specialties: Their red chile burrito is famous. Their was former #ThisIsÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ food writer . During a vegetarian kick, I once ordered their calabacitas burrito when everyone else went with meat filling. Please don't repeat my mistake.
For more information, .
Tortillas Bryan
Location: .
Note: If you ask many ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥ans, especially over on , who makes the best tortillas, Tortillas Bryan is almost always among the top answers.
For more information, .
Doña Angelita Tortillas
Location:
For more information, visit their .
A customer gets in their car after shopping at Tortillas de Don Juan, 1924 S. Fourth Ave. on July 20, 2021.
TortillerÃa Don Juan
Location: .
For more information, .
An employee flattens tortillas at Tortillas de Don Juan, 1924 S. Fourth Ave. on July 20, 2021.
TortillerÃa Doña Esperanza
Location: .
Specialties: Doña Esperanza's offers cookie-like hand pies, filled with funky, sweet cajeta, if you're looking for a sweet bite.
For more information, .
La Estrella Bakery
Locations: .,Ìý, ,
Specialties: La Estrella's tortillas are good. Their doughnuts, however, are singular. Pair with a cochata from for a perfect afternoon treat.
For more information, .
The mural above the front door of Tortillas de Harina Linda at 2115 S. Third Ave.
Tortillas de Harina Linda
Location: .
For more information, .
Jalisco Restaurante
Location:
Good to know: Because Jalisco is a restaurant foremost, they charge per tortilla.
For more information, .
La Mesa Tortillas
Location: ;
Specialties: La Mesa serves red chile and green chile burritos and tamales as well as tortillas.
For more information, .
Mendez Bakery at 1219 S. Sixth Ave. on July 20, 2021.
Mendez Bakery
Location: .
Specialties: In addition to their practically laminated tortillas, Mendez Bakery makes delicious pan dulce. Try the ones with fruit filling — my favorite is a dry shell with sticky pineapple-citrus goo in the middle. The moisture from the filling brings the crust to life. Better than pie. Bonus: This bakery is the former home of the original iconic .
For more information, .
Corn tortillas and flour tortillas rest on a case with bakery items at Mendez Bakery, 1219 S. Sixth Ave. on July 20, 2021.
Mi Casita Tortilla
Location: .
For more information, .
La Palma Tortilla Factory
Location:
For more information, .
The Quesadillas
Location:
Specialties: With a name like The Quesadillas, their specialty may be self–evident. Try the mesquite-grilled carne asada.
For more information, .
St. Mary’s Mexican Food
Location:
Specialties: Don't bother with anything that isn't made with their house tortilla, which must be made with lard from heaven. It has an extra punch of flavor I miss everywhere else. Like many St. Mary's devotees, I think my order is what's best: the cheese enchilada combo with sides of rice and beans. Mix everything in the sauce. Add the birria from their taco. Toss the shell; sip on your horchata. Life is good in ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥.
For more information, .
Tania’s 33
Location: .
Specialties: My vegetarian boyfriend swears by their cauliflower burrito. The cauliflower filling has mysteriously run out every time I've attempted to try it. What a coincidence!
For more information, .
Tania’s Flour Tortillas
Location: and .
For more information, .
El Triunfo Bakery
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For more information, .
ÃÛèÖÖ±²¥'s unique flavorsÂ
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